![]() What were your thoughts leading up to that last climb? So you sent the route on the last day of your trip, on what seems to be the last attempt of the day. I took all gingerly on the other and had to come down. I climbed it once, and put one of the nuts in, and I was, like, “Ah that doesn’t seem like it’s in very well.” And when I climbed past, it just dropped out. When they get a bit bent, they don’t go in as well and are very strenuous to place. Part of the crux really was learning how to place the Ball Nuts. Every day Maddy and I had so much to do it wasn’t like we worked it out really quick and it just took practicing it. But I climb it so much differently than they do. I think Lonnie used triple zeros, but the Ball Nuts go in way nicer, I think…I fell onto both of the Ball Nut placements a bunch of times and they held every time. The main beta we got from those guys was to use the Ball Nuts for the two crux sections. I saw Lonnie a bunch at the crag-he gave us some beta-and also Carlo Traversi came up with me a few times and gave me some beta. How Related: The Indestructibles-How Hazel Findlay Came Back From Injury to Climb Harder Than Everĭid you speak with Lonnie or Ron Kauk about the beta?.In the back of my mind, I was wondering if I could get back in time for Magic Line. But then, shortly after that, I blew my A2 pulley in my ring finger so the whole start of this year I was just rehabbing my finger. I only got about 15 minutes to try it, but it was enough for me to realize how cool the climb was and that it was really hard. I didn’t have to go away and fingerboard for three months. Even some of the 8c sport climbs I’ve done, it was just about getting fit on the route. It required me to train and get stronger versus other climbs I’ve done. Hazel Findlay: Ah thanks! How was Magic Line different than some of your other hard ascents in the past? Interview So first of all, congratulations on your send! Top this with thin gear, technical placements, horrible feet, and continuous climbing, and you have a 5.14 behemoth of a route. Magic Line has two distinct cruxes: One is a V11 boulder problem protected by Ball Nuts (aka Lowe Balls) and the other is a V9 sequence near the top of the climb. It wouldn’t see a redpoint ascent (placing the protection as you ascend) until his son Lonnie Kauk climbed it in that style in 2018 (though the younger Kauk had pinkpointed it in December 2016)-the same year Findlay had her first look at the route. Magic Line’s history starts with the Stonemaster Ron Kauk, who made the first ascent of the Yosemite crack on pre-placed gear in 1996 at the grade of 5.14b. ![]() “This is a lot harder than anything I’ve done in the past,” Findlay said in a phone interview. The 100-foot, offset tips crack next to Vernal Falls has a fierce reputation, and has repelled many suitors over the years. ![]() She is one of the strongest trad climbers in the world, and made a huge statement by redpointing Magic Line (5.14c) in Yosemite on November 26, 2019. The UK climber Hazel Findlay is no stranger to hard climbing. ![]() Hazel Findlay on the notoriously difficult Yosemite crack, Magic Line (5.14c). I would like it to stay on the menu item that the submenus are under.Get access to everything we publish when you When you hover over any sub menu items, the magic line shoots all the way to the left side of the page. I am implementing this "Magic Line" code into my navigation menu, but I seem to be having troubles when adding a sub menu.
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